Cats originated in the desert and have evolved to obtain water requirements almost entirely from the moisture content in food. Canned diets contain enough water that cats consuming them rarely need to drink. Thus the cat needs to drink less than 1 oz. of additional water per day whereas a cat consuming a dry diet needs to drink over 7 oz. of water per day. This can be difficult because cats are not naturally big drinkers and frequently leads to bladder and kidney problems.
Obesity is a common problem in our cats.
It’s so easy to look at the little faces and give
in with a treat. But being overweight can
lead to many health issues like diabetes and
arthritis. For those with weight issues, losing
weight isn’t easy. Here are some ways to
help your cats lose weight.
Our pets are very good at hiding signs of illness.
Although we don’t want to overact, we
have to remember that any break from the
normal routine can signify disease. For a list of
common signs of disease
Dr. Ernest has been a member of
the Veterinary Information Network
since 2001. She is a regular member
and contributes to discussions frequently.
She has access to a database of
veterinary journals, colleagues, and
specialists of all fields…………
Welcome to the Medical Library!
If you have a particular problem you wish to learn more about, please click the picture below.
Does your dog hate thunderstorms and fireworks?
Nobody appreciates a car ride more than our dogs. As fun as it may
be for them , we do have to protect them from potential dangers.
For tips on traveling with your pet
How does your dog’s age compare to human age?
Did You Know
Ferrets are very inquisitive and playful animals. Here are some fun games to play with your ferrets.
Rabbits make great pets. They do have special housing needs
to keep them safe and happy.
To read more about their unique needs
A proper diet is necessary for the health of your rabbit.
The most important part of the pet rabbit diet is an unlimited supply of grass hay, Timothy or Bermuda are best, which provides essential fiber as well as proteins, vitamins, minerals and carbohydrates. In addition, because of the high fiber content of the hay, it is the best preventative for stomach and intestinal problems such as 'hairballs' and chronic soft stools making it unnecessary to routinely use hairball laxatives or anti-
Give 3 different kinds of leaves or vegetables daily. Choose dark greens such as kale, mustard greens, dandelion greens (and flowers), raspberry leaves, escarole, endive, radicchio, collard greens, beet greens, carrot tops, parsley, turnip tops, romaine, Swiss chard, bok choy, mint leaves, cabbage (red and green), or parsley. Appropriate vegetables include carrots, green peppers, broccoli, cauliflower, and cabbage. Feed a very small amount of pellets daily.
Spaying and Neutering
The term for neutering in the male is castration and in the female is ovariohysterectomy (spay) .
One should not consider breeding these pets just for 'fun' or 'education'. Be a responsible pet owner and do not breed your pet unless you are well educated on the topic and are prepared to take on all the responsibilities such activity entails.
Reasons for Neutering Rabbits
Prevention of Pregnancy Prevention of Other Uterine Disease
Prevention of Mammary Gland Prevention of Uterine Cancer
(Breast) Disease Prevention of Aggressive Behavior Prevention of Urine Spraying Prevention of False Pregnancies
Prevention of Testicular Disease
When should my rabbit be neutered/spayed?
It is recommended that rabbits be neutered between 4 and 9 months of age. Younger than four months of age makes the surgery more difficult due to the size and position of the reproductive organs. Neutering before 2 years of age decreases the incidence of uterine and mammary gland disease.
How safe is neutering my rabbit?
While any surgical or anesthetic event has certain risks associated with it, all precautions are taken to ensure your pet's safety. This starts with a physical exam prior to scheduling surgery. The anesthetics used are quickly metabolized and eliminated from the body. During the procedure a
certified veterinary technician monitors your pet's vital signs and is able to detect problems early. Again, no guarantees can be made that problems won't arise, however a staff skilled in rabbit medicine decreases the risks greatly.
Food Dos and Don’ts
Never allow a bird to eat from your mouth. The natural bacteria in a bird’s mouth and a human’s mouth differ, and human bacteria are always pathogenic to birds. Birds will greatly enjoy sharing dinner with their owners. They can eat most things that people should eat (healthy foods).
Never give "fortified" items with extra vitamins or minerals; especially human foods that have additional zinc. Some human enriched-
Safe suggestions include: air-
are an unbalanced source of nutrition. Seed has up to 58% fat, it is low in calcium, as well as sodium, copper, zinc, magnesium, selenium, high (or low) in iodine, little or no Vitamin A, no vitamin D, low in vitamin K, riboflavin, niacin, B12 and pantothenic acid. There is an incorrect mineral balance for a bird’s needs and a high fat to protein ratio. Seeds also have a reverse calcium/phosphorus ratio which leads to decreased calcium absorption. Reduced levels of vitamin A, a common problem with all-
If your bird is on a seed diet DO NOT attempt to convert them to a different diet without consulting a veterinarian. Birds may not eat at all, become prone to infection, and can die if diet is changed suddenly.
Birds have an elaborate respiratory system which makes them particularly susceptible to inhalants and fumes.
AVOID cigarette smoke, smoke, termite fumigation, hairspray, fireplace, window cleaners and other household cleaning products, perfumes and colognes, dryer fabric softener sheets, scented detergents, scented candles, art supplies (fixatives, pigments), new carpeting, carpet
fresheners, new paint, aerosol sprays of any type, and air fresheners.
Guinea pigs are herbivores and require a similar diet as rabbits with plenty of grass hay and greens and limited commercial pellets. They have continuously growing incisors and molars which wear down, as in the rabbit, with the normal action of eating. Guinea pigs also produce nutrient rich cecotropes in a similar manner as the rabbit which they eat directly from the anal area. Guinea pigs should have unlimited grass hay for the same reason as rabbits. While other rodents, rabbits and ferrets can produce their own vitamin C inside their bodies; guinea pigs cannot produce their own vitamin C and require an external source. Dark, leafy greens are very high in vitamin C, for instance a cup of fresh kale contains approximately 250mg of vitamin C compared to a cup of oranges (without the peel) which contains only 50mg of C. The minimum daily requirement for vitamin C
Rats, mice, and hamsters have similar dietary requirements. They all eat primarily plant material but rats, mice and particularly hamsters are also know to eat some meat products and are considered omnivorous. All of these species have continually growing incisors which wear down as described for the rabbit. The basic diet for this group should consist of a good quality rodent chow or lab block. Rodent chows should have a minimum of 16% protein and 4-
Other foods can be fed in addition to the commercial pellets but should not constitute more that 10% of the total diet. Fruit and leafy greens as described for the rabbits, guinea pigs and chinchillas can be offered. Remove any uneaten fresh foods within 3 to 4 hours to prevent spoilage. All of these species love grains, nuts and seeds, but these foods should be offered in very small quantities because of their high fat content. If these 'treat' foods are given free choice, the pet will eat them exclusively, not eat the balanced pellets and develop nutritional disease such as obesity. A few nuts or seeds daily given as a special treat is acceptable. Meat and cheese in small amounts may be offered to mice, rats and hamsters. These foods spoil rapidly and should be removed from the cage within one hour if not eaten.
As with any pet, good quality food and clean, fresh water must be provided at all times. In the wild, gerbils feed on leaves, seeds and roots. Current recommendations for feeding in captivity are pelleted rodent ration containing 20% -
Snacks may include sugarless breakfast cereals, whole wheat breads, pasta, cheese, fresh fruits and vegetables; all fed in moderation. Gerbils eat approximately 5 to 8 grams of food daily.
Although gerbils in the wild require little water to drink since they derive most of their fluid from the foods they ingest, caged gerbils must be provided with a continuous source of clean water. Inadequate water consumption can lead to infertility, lower body weight and eventually death. Water is easily provided in water bottles equipped with drip tubes. This method also helps keep the water free from contamination. Always make sure that the tubes are positioned low enough to allow the pet easy access. The average adult gerbil drinks approximately 4 to 10 ml of water daily. Although this amount is only a fraction of the total bottle volume, fresh water should be provided daily, not only when the bottle empties.
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11816 N. 56th St.
Temple Terrace, Fl. 33617